The Apple Club Newsletter
Winter 2012
Welcome to our winter newsletter. I would like to wish all our
customers and friends a happy Christmas. For anyone growing crops and
raising animals, this has been a tricky year, with a wet summer and
poor yields. Hopefully the bad weather run is at an end, and we can
look forward to better crops in 2013.
Sweet things
As
humans we have always been attracted to sweet things. Millennia ago,
our ability to find sweet things was limited by season and nature. The
sweetest thing we could find in the wild was honey, and aside from
that, we could eat sweet fruits, berries, and sometimes roots, if we
could find them.
Apart from the significant periods of scarcity, it
was probably as well that sweetness was found in natural foods, as
without modern medicines and healthcare, it was the consumption of the
fruits and roots that kept us all healthy.
About 2500 years ago, in
India at first, people began extracting sugar from sugar cane, though
only on a small scale. It took until the 18th century for sugar to
become widely available in Europe, but it was only in the last 200
years that it became popular.
Nowadays, thanks to the production of
sugar from sugar beet in temperate climates (including Ireland up to
recently), and its production from cane in tropical areas, sugar is
everywhere.
Average Worldwide consumption is equivalent to 2 bags
(of 1 kg) per person per month. In Europe and the US, sugar consumption
is about 5 bags per person per month.
That is a lot of sugar, given that in our natural diet, we would have
had access to none of it.
Of
course, our use of much of these sugars is blind. They come in
everything from breakfast cereals to cakes, desserts, ready meals and
so forth.
One source of sugar in the diet is soft-drinks. Some of
these are fizzy “sodas”, and others are called “energy
drinks”.
They are considered especially unhelpful in our diets, as they contain
nothing useful for our bodies, and are thus considered a source of
“empty calories”.
In Ireland our government loves to tax things. If
they could, I am sure they would tax the weather. Recently, James
Reilly suggested that a tax on sugar-sweetened drinks would be a good
idea. A lot of vested interests are against it.
Personally, I would
agree with a tax on sugar-sweetened drinks, and the more the better.
Clearly they contribute to obesity; basically they’re bad for our
health..
Now, by itself, the tax might not help our diets much. And
maybe we should have rules about the largest portion size that can be
bought where the drinks are meant for immediate consumption. And
perhaps also, sports people who pretend to drink brand X or Y after a
match when they would not normally touch the stuff should be more like
Paul O’Connell, who decided to promote milk instead. And really, could
school vending machines not be filled with healthy drinks rather than
500ml bottles of you-know-what.
There are so many options that could
be tried; perhaps every option should be deployed. But right now, I am
just thinking about the tax on sugary drinks.
Of course, the big
business lobby says that the tax won’t make any difference to people’s
diet. If that is really the case though, I wonder why they are opposing
it so vigorously?
So then I did a little calculation. If a tax on
these sugary drinks resulted in everyone in Ireland buying a fruit
juice instead of a sugary drink just once a week, about 600 jobs would
be created. That is because the jobs input in making a fruit juice
(which is typically done on relatively small scale compared with the
sugary drinks), is so much higher.
So what should we do? We all dislike taxes. And we all love sweet
things.
But
we like to do the right thing as well. And helping us decide on a fruit
juice or water instead of a sugary drink by changing the price of the
“soda” might be just what the doctor ordered.
Food writers
There
are many people who write about food. I sometimes think it must be
great to be a restaurant critic; to go to fine restaurants and eat
delicious food, and to get paid to do it. But then, you also sometimes
have to say or write some harsh things about what you experience, and
that cannot be easy. But there are also those who write about food in
other ways; who write about cooking it, or growing it, or about the
producers of food.
But I was not aware that there was a guild of food writers, at least
until early this year.
It
was back then that I got a call, to say that we had been selected for
an award, and to make our way to Dublin for a lunch to collect it (so
often the awards are in Dublin).
After an exceptional lunch in Derry
and Sallyanne Clarke’s L’Ecrivain restaurant; a place I only knew
through reading the glossy pages of the weekend newspapers, it was a
real treat to be presented with the award by Myrtle Allen, the woman
behind so much of Irish food culture (and Ballymaloe House) for fifty
years or more.
The award (for services to the apple growing industry
“lifetime achievement”) was co-presented by Simon Coveney, our minister
for agriculture, who then had the pleasure of listening to me tell him
about things the government could do to encourage more apple growing in
Ireland. Whether any of that rubbed off on him is difficult to say yet,
but it can’t have done any harm. As food writer Biddy White-Lennon
(formerly Maggie in The Riordans) said to me on the day: “It is an
opportunity to make the most of.”
ITV
Once again we had
the camera crews at The Apple Farm this summer and autumn. This time is
was for a programme to be screened on ITV in the UK next spring,
provisionally called Ireland with James Nesbitt. The idea of the
programme is to show all sorts of positive stories about Ireland,
especially those that might encourage tourists to visit here.
And
so, given that we have a farm that a tourist might visit for an hour or
two (or maybe stay on the campsite for a day or two), and perhaps have
a look at what we do here, or enjoy themselves picking some fruit, we
were included. As usual, there were many hours of filming, for what
will be a few seconds or a minute of footage, but the producers assured
us that the farm looked well, and that they were getting the type of
shots they wanted.
As luck had it, during the summer we were
preparing for our first ever apple and cider festival on the farm, and
as part of that, the lead-in and the day itself were filmed for the
program. The only pity was that James Nesbitt did not come here himself
for the filming, so we did not get any autograph. We will just have to
be happy with having him narrate our little story.
Blame the weather
Good
Food Ireland is an organisation whose aim is to link food producers
with tourism providers, so that tourists coming to Ireland can
experience the fine food that we have to offer.
For me, the concept makes such sense, as one of the main things anyone
spends money on while on holiday, is food.
A
few years ago, a Nenagh shopkeeper, Peter Ward, said it was national
sabotage if a hotel or B&B served a breakfast with Danish
rashers,
Dutch sausages, supermarket sliced pan and Californian orange juice,
when they could have local rashers, sausages, free range or organic
eggs, homemade brown bread and Irish apple juice instead. Not many
people cared when he said it first, but now our tourism providers are
getting the message. They need to sell what is unique about Ireland at
every opportunity, and that includes the food they serve.
Aside
from the fine hospitality that we give, that is what tourists will
remember when they return home, just as much as the cliffs of Moher. It
is what will bring them back, and encourage them to tell their friends
to come.
That is the Good Food Ireland message, and that is why I joined them as
a producer member a few years ago.
As
it happens, each year, Good Food Ireland has an awards ceremony, aimed
at chefs, hotels, shops, pubs, restaurants and caf ’s, to acknowledge
those doing a superb job at linking local food and tourism. This year,
they also had a “come and see” producer of the year award.
And so,
our farm was nominated in this category, along with some other very
worthy establishments, one of which in particular, I felt was sure to
pick up the award.
As the awards ceremony was in Dublin, we headed
up, as we knew a fine meal (of good Irish food) was in store, and it is
always nice to meet fellow producers and old friends.
Towards the
end of the meal, when the awards were announced, it turned out we won
the category. It was a real surprise, and a dubious treat to be asked
by Taoiseach, Enda Kenny (who was presenting the awards), why the apple
trees in his garden were not giving any fruit.
If I had been quick
enough, I would have said he was cutting back too hard in the pruning.
Unfortunately, I don’t think that fast under pressure, so could only
blame the weather.
In the farm shop:
We have our usual
range of apples, including really beautiful Elstar, as well as that
traditional favourite, Karmijn de Sonnaville. We are just finished with
the popular Wellant, but will soon have lovely sweet Pinova. Bramley
cookers are also available, as are Golden Delicious. Jonagold will also
be available quite soon.
In addition, we have a number of new
products especially for Christmas, the most seasonal of which are our
mulled juices, which we have as mulled apple or mulled apple &
blackcurrant. These are juices with spices, which make a lovely warm
drink, but without the alcohol. Simply heat before serving, and warm
yourself up on a cold winter’s evening.
Our juices are as popular as
ever and really good value, with a case of 12 large bottles flying out
both to people who call in and by courier as Christmas gifts.
In
fact, if you like you can even include a personal message when ordering
online, and we will include it with the box when sending to your lucky
friends.
The sparkling juice is going from strength to strength,
with people coming from all over Ireland to get it, as well as online
orders.
All the juices and jams make a great Christmas present,
either in a presentation basket or bag, or with a few fruits. The apple
jelly goes especially well as a glaze for the Christmas ham.
Lastly, we have hampers of juices, jams and fruit in our farm shop. A
popular and practical Christmas gift.
Apple and Cider Festival
As
mentioned above, this year we ran an apple and cider festival on our
farm, and in our local town of Cahir. The idea had been mentioned to me
a few times in the past, and it was something that we long-fingered,
but when Paul Deegan of Slow Food approached us this year, it became a
little harder to postpone for yet another year.
As it happened, we
had earlier in the year been approached by the Irish Seedsavers
Association about holding their apple day at our farm, instead of their
usual venue in Scariff, Co. Clare, as they hoped to get some extra
supporters by moving for a change. As enthusiastic supporters of the
Seedsavers and their aims, we agreed to provide the venue, and drum up
publicity, so that was already scheduled for Sunday, September 23rd.
So
when the idea of cider was brought into it, we decided to make it a
two-day event, with the cider scheduled for the previous day.
Luckily,
when Paul went searching for funding, the South Tipperary Development
Company (Leader) was very generous, and agreed to cover costs
associated with parts of the festival, as without external funding, it
would not have been possible, as we wished to keep it free of charge to
enter.
And so we were able to hire a “cider tent”, and space for the
band, as well as print publicity, fliers, and take out some advertising.
On
the Saturday, we had seven small-scale cider makers from around Ireland
explaining about their wares in the cider tent, a talk by Seamus
Sheridan on matching cheese and cider, a talk by Sean Mac An tSaoir on
the history of cider-making in Ireland, and a demonstration of
cider-making as you could do it at home by Dick and Ann Keating of Bay
Lough Cheese fame.
As making, tasting and discussing cider are
pursuits that create an appetite, we had well-known chef, JJ Healy on
site with Crowe’s Farm, preparing some fantastic foods for a fiver.
We
also organised a meal for the Saturday night, where a menu of various
dishes was paired with ciders, and this was nicely run by Cahir House
Hotel.
And to finish the evening, we had a tour of pubs in Cahir, who had
agreed to stock artisan ciders for the evening in question.
As
everyone knows, when you drink artisan ciders, you never get a hangover
or headache, so early on Sunday morning we were ready to go with the
Seedsavers Apple Day. This was another great success, with huge
interest around their story, and also in the demonstrations of apple
tree pruning and farm tours that we had organised for the afternoon. It
is always good fun to see how amazed people are when they see what
looks like a lot of the branches being pruned off an apple trees.
For
the kids on both days we had face-painting and the likes, and also the
highly popular tractor & trailer rides through the orchard,
which
oddly enough, sometimes also had some very mature looking children
aboard!
So for a first year event it was very successful. We had
about 1000 visitors over the two days, which was much more than we
expected.
The plan is to run it again, but hopefully centred more on
the town than the farm, as if it is bigger next year, it might get too
large for the farm. In the longer run, who knows how big it will
get.
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