The Apple Club
NEWSLETTER
WINTER 2013
Welcome to our winter newsletter. I would like to wish all our
customers and friends a happy Christmas. From a farming perspective,
what can I say, except that 2013 has been an exceptional year. Crops
were good and livestock were happy. Hopefully we can look forward to a
continuation of the same in 2014.
Pylons
It is often the
case that when we hear or read about something happening somewhere
else, that we do not pay too much attention. So it was with me also,
when I heard about plans to put electrical pylons “up the country”.
However, when “up the country” became “down the road”, it was time to
find out more.
The company planning the work is Eirgrid, a
state-owned company charged with looking after the transmission
network. They are currently making plans to put up high-voltage
overhead cables across Ireland; a project with a budget of about four
billion euros.
The project is part of a Europe-wide upgrade to power
networks, to facilitate the movement of electricity from country to
country, and to accommodate renewable power.
But not every country
is approaching the issue in the same way as Ireland. For instance, in
the Netherlands all new high voltage lines must by law be buried. The
decision has been made in order to gain public acceptance for the
project. Instead Ireland is opting for old-fashioned overhead cabling
like we might have expected or accepted fifty years ago. The European
Commission, more than ten years ago, said that undergrounding should be
considered as part of the Europe-wide grid plan, as the savings to be
made by having a Europe-wide grid outweigh the costs of undergrounding
in any case. Hopefully someone in Ireland will see the light, before
the power goes out.
Bees
Two years ago I wrote briefly
about the native bees we had on our farm. Since then, bees have hardly
been out of the news. And unfortunately, as is so often the case, it is
bad news that makes the headlines.
It is reputed that Einstein said
(though apparently it was somebody else), that if bees disappeared,
that mankind would also perish within two years. The point of course
being, that bees pollinate our flowering crops, and without the bees,
we would have a very limited range of foods to live on, and we could
not survive on these for long.
For the past few years, bee numbers
have been on the decline, because of habitat loss, bad weather, more
parasites, and new pesticides. Because it is of much concern,
governments as well as citizens are worried.
And so, due to concerns
about specific pesticides, earlier this year the EU decided to limit
permissions for the use of three neonicotinoid insecticides.
These are a class of insecticide, resembling nicotine, which have
become widely used in the past decade. They work by being taken into
the plant, usually from a seed treatment, and moving to the foliage and
flowers, which when fed on by pests (or bees), are toxic to them. At
the time of introduction the chemical companies involved produced data
to show that they were safe for bees. However, in more recent years,
data has accumulated which shows that they are not as safe as
originally thought, and that the original company data underestimated
real-life exposure levels, and non-lethal but nonetheless damaging
effects.
Needless to say, the companies making the chemicals are not
happy that they can’t be used for the next two years, and say that
billions of euros worth of crops will fail, and tens of thousands of
jobs will be lost in agriculture.
Having spoken with farmers here in
Ireland, they don’t seem as concerned. In fact, many of the farmers
were unhappy that, when buying seeds, the only ones they could source
from merchants came pre-treated with these chemicals, whether they
wanted them or not. Indeed, farmers could not understand why only
treated seed were available, when they knew themselves that certain
fields would not need insecticide-treated seeds, due to low levels of
pests, cropping history etc. Of course, the fact that the same
companies produce the pesticides and supply the seeds might explain why
the seeds mostly came treated, but that is a story for a different day.
So
now we have a Europe-wide suspension in use of these neonicotinoids.
The question is whether the bee populations will improve as a result.
Farmers will still have to use insecticides under certain
circumstances, but will revert to using ones that pre-date the bee
decline, and are definitely not as harmful. Will the bee populations
stage a recovery? It is very difficult to say for sure, but I suspect
they will. If they do, it will be a major embarrassment for the
manufacturers continuing to lobby for a reintroduction of these
chemicals, and the politicians siding with those companies.
In the farm shop
We
have our usual range of apples, including really beautiful Elstar, as
well as that traditional favorite, Karmijn de Sonnaville. We are just
about to begin with our newest variety Wellant, and will soon have the
famous Jonagored, which I mentioned above. Bramley cookers are also
available, as are Golden Delicious.
In addition, we have a number of
new products especially for Christmas, the most seasonal of which are
our mulled juices, which we have as mulled apple or mulled apple
&
blackcurrant. These are juices with spices, which make a lovely warm
drink, but without the alcohol. Simply heat before serving, and warm
yourself up on a cold winter’s evening.
Our juices are as popular as
ever and really good value, with a case of 12 large bottles flying out
both to people who call in and by courier as Christmas gifts.
In
fact, if you like you can even include a personal message when ordering
online, and we will include it with the box when sending to your lucky
friends.
The sparkling juice is going from strength to strength,
with people coming from all over Ireland to get it, as well as online
orders.
All the juices and jams make a great Christmas present,
either in a presentation basket or bag, or with a few fruits. The apple
jelly goes especially well as a glaze for the Christmas ham.
Lastly, we have hampers of juices, jams and fruit in our farm shop.
These are popular and practical Christmas gifts.
Marie-Louise O’Donnell
The
Sean O’Rourke show on RTE radio 1 decided to do a piece on apples, and
who did they send but reporter Marie-Louise O’Donnell. Such was her
enthusiasm for apples that she turned a five-minute slot into twelve
minutes. She elaborated on the smell of the apples, the “green
soldiers” of trees, “golden orbs” and “red orbs”, not to mention “green
spheres” hanging from the trees like Christmas decorations. “Sour and
sweet, full and frothing”. For anyone that missed it, you can listen to
it again here.
If you fancy a smile and have 12 minutes to spare, listen back today.
Differences between Irish and imported apples
Customers
who call to our farm for apples regularly comment about the difference
between Irish-grown and imported ones, and how ours so often seem
juicier.
And when I chat to the customer about the reasons for this,
my mind always goes back to my days in UCD, and to what we learned
about the physiology of apples; that is to say, how they grow. The
reason, as with so much else in Ireland, comes down to the weather.
Apple
trees go through a very distinct cycle when producing apples. First
they blossom, and then, once pollinated, the base of the flower expands
to become the fruit we will eventually eat. The growth of this basal
part of the flower from a few compressed cells to the many hundreds of
thousands bursting with flavour in a fully-grown apple follows a very
predictable route.
For the first seven weeks after blossom, the
small fruitlet grows by cell division, which is one cell becoming two,
these two becoming four, these becoming eight, and then sixteen, with
many doublings to give what will, by sometime in June, be the total
number of cells that that apple will have. No more cells are added
after the seven-week period.
For the rest of the summer, through
July, August, September, and maybe even October, the apple continues to
grow, but now by cell expansion rather than adding more cells.
So
how, you might ask, will this make Irish apples different to imports?
The answer lays in the weather, or rather temperatures, during the
seven-week cell division period after blossom. In warm weather, cells
divide quickly; in cool conditions they divide slowly. In countries
where May and early June are warm, the cells will divide more often
than in countries like Ireland, where temperatures at this critical
time are cooler. More regular division will lead to apples with more
cells; perhaps twice or three times as many as we might expect here.
So
while our apples may be just as large come harvest time as those from
warmer countries, ours will contain less cells, but each cell will be
individually larger; perhaps twice as large as a warm-climate apple.
And
when you bite into an Irish apple, the chances by breaking open a cell,
releasing the juice, rather than biting between cells, are increased.
So our apples seem juicier, with a particular type of crispness. The
imported apples, with more but smaller cells will seem more dense,
because the cells require more biting or chewing to release all their
juice. They may also seem harder when handled, which is a difference
that apple pickers sometimes also comment on when they pick otherwise
similar apples in regions with different climates.
Apart from
commenting on the difference in perceived taste, Irish apple growers
are now hopeful that the cell size can be used as a sort of proof of
origin. Unfortunately, while consumers are eager to buy Irish apples,
some unscrupulous sellers pass off imports as Irish, fooling consumers
and causing problems in the market for genuine Irish producers.
This
year University of Limerick are running a project to define the typical
number of cells, and size of cells, found in apples of Irish-grown
varieties. These are being compared with apples sourced in the UK,
France, Poland, and so on. Once the benchmarks are known and defined,
it will be possible for a body like the department of Agriculture to
scientifically determine the type of climate an apple has grown in, by
just taking a few samples and examining the cell size under a
microscope. Given our uniquely cool May and June temperatures, it will
be possible to say for sure whether or not the apple is Irish.
Rose Morren and Jonagored
One
of the apples that is widely grown in Ireland is Jonagored (properly
called Morren’s Jonagored). It is a natural variant or clone of a
variety called Jonagold, originally from the United States, though this
variant was discovered in an orchard in Belgium in 1980.
And so
began the story of the Jonagored apple, because this apple did not
appear in any old orchard, but rather that being run by Jos and Rose
Morren. Seeing the potential of this bright red version of what was
typically a faintly coloured fruit, they decided to commercialise the
apple, and given that Jos was the farmer, it fell to Rose to bring the
apple to the World and sell it.
This she did with great enthusiasm,
propagating trees and selling them, and encouraging growers to try her
new variety, which she knew would sell on its good looks and productive
nature. She brought apples to competitions around the World, and won
accolades such as “tastiest apple” in the UK and USA, “finest dessert
apple”, “best skin finish”, “best new apple variety” and “best stored
apple” in various other countries.
Seeing the potential, Rose
pursued the idea of having the apple categorised separately from its
siblings, which though similar in taste, looked somewhat different. She
succeeded in this too, and within twenty years of its discovery, the
apple was the 7th most important in Europe, with an annual production
of 270 thousand tons (more than a billion apples a year).
The first
plantings of Jonagored in Ireland were in 1990, and growers here were
also delighted with the fruits, and because of the productivity of the
trees, it marked the end of the rapid decline in Irish apple production
that had proceeded from about 1970 until then.
Rose visited Ireland
on a few occasions, to see how her trees were doing here, and to keep
in touch with growers, including myself. She also said that she thought
her husband’s name of Morren may have had Irish origin, as Moran, so
maybe we can claim this apple as partly Irish too.
A few days ago I
received the sad news that Rose had died after an illness. She was just
past retirement age, though there was no sign of her retiring. Her
success in creating one of the World’s most successful apples in an
incredibly short time will mean her name will remain known long into
the future.
Certainly every time I bite into a Morren’s Jonagored, I will think of
Rose, her visits to Ireland, and her love of apples.
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